The Mountains of the Moon

The Rwenzori Mountains (Rwenzori in Bokonjo for rain makers) are the tallest mountain range in Africa. They are also home to the fastest melting glaciers in the world. This fact along with the desire for adventure brought My father, his friend Tam, and I to the mountains in early February. The following are a few of my journal entries while I was in the mountains:

February 11th

What a hike! We have just arrived at the first hut in the Rwenzoris after a day spent scrambling straight up for 3000 feet. The peaks, valleys, and rivers around us are magnificent - although i spent most of the hike looking down at my feet because the "trail" was so precarious.

The snow line here is receding up and up - so much that the guides are being trained in rock climbing to prepare for no snow! Some of the local Bokonjo people believe that the snow is melting because they have not been sacrificing to the mountain god, although our guide assured us that the melting was simply due to global warming.

February 12th

I have never in my life sen such strange territory. I felt as if every few feet of hiking I was moving back Milena in time - back to the primordial beginnings of life. The entire trail is layered in thick mud, it is almost impossible to move with out submerging my boots in muck - up and up and up through endless rivers of mud. Along the trail where trees covered in wizard-like beards of pale green moss. We hiked for 8 hours to Nyabita hut.

February 13th

Another exhausting day! We set off this morning at 8 and crossed (hopping from rock to rock) a river before entering the lower Big-O bog. Luckily there is a high boardwalk that crosses this bog, although the boards are 6 inches apart, so you still cannot pry your eyes away from the footing. After the bog, we reached a small hut. Tam, who has been struggling a bit with the hike (it is extremely difficult, and even the most fit people find the hiking strenuous) decided to stay with the second guide Dezi, while my father and I continued up.

The rest of the hike was intensely difficult. We climbed a ridge (the trail of course was covered with mud) and down into the upper Big-O Bog. The bog has no boardwalk, and we plugged along through the mud - hopping from tussock to tussock. (Tussocks are round bulges of vegetation). After the bog we climbed STRAIGHT up a muddy creek bed, scrambling on muddy rocks and swinging on branches from log to log. We crossed a roaring stream several times, and each time I barely let myself think what would happen if i slipped on the slippery wooden planks. At the top we found beautiful lake - only to realize that it was surrounded by another bog!!! Again we jumped from e tussock to muddy rock to submerged log - one wrong step and you are up to your waste in mud. By this time we were so high that the temperature had dropped significantly. My hands were freezing, and a cold misty drizzle fell on us most of the afternoon. We made it to camp by four, around 13,000 feet, my hands were so cold i couldn't change my clothes - But luckily i got a basin of hot water and soaked them - and jumped in my sleeping bag to warm up.

February 14th

We woke this morning at 6, for an early start up to Mt. Speke. After climbing straight up for 30 minutes, the back of my head started pounding - and i felt splitting pain through to my left eye. also started hyperventilating and getting nauseous - all the signs of altitude sickness unfortunately. So with much disappointment and a few tears I turned back to camp, while my father and our guide continued to the glacier. They returned to camp at 1:30 and we descended.

I am sorry to leave these majestic peaks - who only reveal their faces for moments before dissapearing behind wispy mist. I am sorry that I could not reach the peaks, but I realize that I am small in the presence of these giants. I leave the Mountains of the Moon humbled and with deep respect and gratitude for reminding me of my human limitations.